WANT TO MAKE YOUR OWN RAIDERS?
You think I'm afraid of the competition?

I say, "The more great Raider minds working together, the
sooner we'll rule the world."  

The NEW Pledge of Allegiance would start, "One RAIDER
Nation under.......
The first thing you want to do is decide WHOM you're going to make and
what base you will use.  McFarlane makes his figures anatomically
correct and I recommend keeping that in mind when choosing a figure
so you don't attempt to make a Charles Woodson with an Ogden base.  
Go to individual NFL teams' home page to get height/weights for players
McFarlane has made.....you better have  the heights/weights of ALL the
Raiders' of past & present memorized already!  

From here, I'm going to turn it over to Jomo (Customzing Tips - Step by
Step Guide) until his step 11.....then come on back:  
www.customsbyjomo.com

1.  Decal Paper - I use white paper because when doing white jerseys
you can just apply the decal and use touch-up paint after application.
Sometimes you don't have to touch up at all depending on how well the
decal adheres.  Applying colored decals is a little more labor intensive
as you have to paint around the name and number to match the base
color of the figure.  A lot of customs you see for sale are just "close" to
original color.  It's up to you.  I get a really small brush and paint around
the name and numbers.  It has paid-off significantly on Ebay for me to
take the extra time.   

2.  Print out the decals on regular paper and see how they'll fit on the
figure.  Once you have them re-sized print them on the decal paper.
Print at least on extra set - that way if you tear one or mess one up, just
cut out another.

3.  After printing the decals - coat the decals with Microscale CLEAR
DECAL FILM with a large brush or airbrush.  Use a thin coat the first time
and store the decals somewhere that is lint, fur, hair etc free so nothing
will stick to the sheet.  The CLEAR DECAL FILM will seal the colors and
prevent flaking, chipping, running, etc.  I use 3 coats at a minimum
sometimes 4....it depends on the time I have.

4.  For smooth surfaces, wet surface with Microscale MICRO SET - this
will form a great bond.  I usually put a coat of MICRO SET on the back of
the decal and a coat on the figures.  Take your time here.  If the decal
sticks automatically and isn't moving around easily then immediately put
a coat of MICRO SOL on the decal.  Once it is in place, use a cloth to
press lightly on the decal.  If using MICRO SOL on irregular surface see
step 5.  

5. For irregular surfaces, wet surface with Microscale MICRO SOL - this
will soften the decal and allow it to conform to the surface - do not use
too much - the decal will become VERY soft.  **Use another brush or
paper towel to lightly push the decal into ridges and irregular surfaces.  
Sometime I will lift one end of the decal and slide a brush dipped in
MICRO SET under the decal to ensure that it will stick properly then I'll
resume pushing the decal into grooves.  **Look at the back of the
Series 9 Urlacher to get an appreciation for irregular surfaces.

6.  Applying decals to the helmet is usually a little more difficult because
of the size of the decal.  It takes patience, but you'll get it.  You have to
cut the decal as close to the edge as possible.  If you're working with
white helmets it's a little easier.

7.  After the decals have sufficiently dried, apply a dull-coat finishing
spray to the body and a gloss-coat finishing spray to the helmet.  **NOTE
- spray the helmet before putting it back on the body.  I normally use 3-4
coats as a standard.  You'll here it over and over again as you read
about making customs,  "Don't get frustrated with early attempts.  It will
take some practice."  If something goes wrong, pull the sticker off and
try again.  If something goes terribly wrong, pull the sticker off, repaint
and do it again.  

www.customsbyjomo.com is the best resource for customizing.  There
are great links to other useful tips and you can get access to his decal
templates by sending him an email. It took about 3 weeks for him to get
back with me.  He is also a part of custommcfarlane@yahoo.groups.com

Buy your paper and products here:
Bare-Metal.com

These are the three things you'll absolutely need:
Micro-Scale decal film
Micro-Set
Micro-Sol
**Micro-flat for finishing after figure is done.  I prefer Testors Dull-Coat
& GLOSS-COAT finishing sprays.

Whew!  That was a lot to learn.  Still have questions?  I'm always free to
help out Raider Nation Brothers & Sisters:  
EMAIL ME HERE:
QUICKLOOK
Submerge base in boiling
Water for a few minutes.  
Drop figure back in for a few
seconds between taking
pieces apart.
Pull them apart and treat 'em
badly like they're Chiefs,
Chargers or Broncos.
Primer: 2 coats minimum. I
wait 24 hrs before applying
first coat of paint.
Paint: 2 coats, then decals
then another coat as you
blend decals.
Decals: Make extra copies,
don't hesitate to pull off,
repaint and apply new ones;
BE PATIENT!
The Helmet: toughest part
because it's the first thing
you and everybody sees.  
Paint white - inside, back
part above neckline & front
part above face-mask
(where Ridell sticker goes).  
Apply decals then shoot with
ONE (1) coat of Gloss Coat.  
Apply face-mask, touch-up &
then 2 more gloss coats.  
Trim neck ball socket, place
on body.