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| WANT TO MAKE YOUR OWN RAIDERS? You think I'm afraid of the competition? I say, "The more great Raider minds working together, the sooner we'll rule the world." The NEW Pledge of Allegiance would start, "One RAIDER Nation under....... |
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| The first thing you want to do is decide WHOM you're going to make and what base you will use. McFarlane makes his figures anatomically correct and I recommend keeping that in mind when choosing a figure so you don't attempt to make a Charles Woodson with an Ogden base. Go to individual NFL teams' home page to get height/weights for players McFarlane has made.....you better have the heights/weights of ALL the Raiders' of past & present memorized already! From here, I'm going to turn it over to Jomo (Customzing Tips - Step by Step Guide) until his step 11.....then come on back: www.customsbyjomo.com 1. Decal Paper - I use white paper because when doing white jerseys you can just apply the decal and use touch-up paint after application. Sometimes you don't have to touch up at all depending on how well the decal adheres. Applying colored decals is a little more labor intensive as you have to paint around the name and number to match the base color of the figure. A lot of customs you see for sale are just "close" to original color. It's up to you. I get a really small brush and paint around the name and numbers. It has paid-off significantly on Ebay for me to take the extra time. 2. Print out the decals on regular paper and see how they'll fit on the figure. Once you have them re-sized print them on the decal paper. Print at least on extra set - that way if you tear one or mess one up, just cut out another. 3. After printing the decals - coat the decals with Microscale CLEAR DECAL FILM with a large brush or airbrush. Use a thin coat the first time and store the decals somewhere that is lint, fur, hair etc free so nothing will stick to the sheet. The CLEAR DECAL FILM will seal the colors and prevent flaking, chipping, running, etc. I use 3 coats at a minimum sometimes 4....it depends on the time I have. 4. For smooth surfaces, wet surface with Microscale MICRO SET - this will form a great bond. I usually put a coat of MICRO SET on the back of the decal and a coat on the figures. Take your time here. If the decal sticks automatically and isn't moving around easily then immediately put a coat of MICRO SOL on the decal. Once it is in place, use a cloth to press lightly on the decal. If using MICRO SOL on irregular surface see step 5. 5. For irregular surfaces, wet surface with Microscale MICRO SOL - this will soften the decal and allow it to conform to the surface - do not use too much - the decal will become VERY soft. **Use another brush or paper towel to lightly push the decal into ridges and irregular surfaces. Sometime I will lift one end of the decal and slide a brush dipped in MICRO SET under the decal to ensure that it will stick properly then I'll resume pushing the decal into grooves. **Look at the back of the Series 9 Urlacher to get an appreciation for irregular surfaces. 6. Applying decals to the helmet is usually a little more difficult because of the size of the decal. It takes patience, but you'll get it. You have to cut the decal as close to the edge as possible. If you're working with white helmets it's a little easier. 7. After the decals have sufficiently dried, apply a dull-coat finishing spray to the body and a gloss-coat finishing spray to the helmet. **NOTE - spray the helmet before putting it back on the body. I normally use 3-4 coats as a standard. You'll here it over and over again as you read about making customs, "Don't get frustrated with early attempts. It will take some practice." If something goes wrong, pull the sticker off and try again. If something goes terribly wrong, pull the sticker off, repaint and do it again. www.customsbyjomo.com is the best resource for customizing. There are great links to other useful tips and you can get access to his decal templates by sending him an email. It took about 3 weeks for him to get back with me. He is also a part of custommcfarlane@yahoo.groups.com Buy your paper and products here: Bare-Metal.com These are the three things you'll absolutely need: Micro-Scale decal film Micro-Set Micro-Sol **Micro-flat for finishing after figure is done. I prefer Testors Dull-Coat & GLOSS-COAT finishing sprays. Whew! That was a lot to learn. Still have questions? I'm always free to help out Raider Nation Brothers & Sisters: EMAIL ME HERE: |
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| QUICKLOOK |
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| Submerge base in boiling Water for a few minutes. Drop figure back in for a few seconds between taking pieces apart. |
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| Pull them apart and treat 'em badly like they're Chiefs, Chargers or Broncos. |
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| Primer: 2 coats minimum. I wait 24 hrs before applying first coat of paint. |
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| Paint: 2 coats, then decals then another coat as you blend decals. |
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| Decals: Make extra copies, don't hesitate to pull off, repaint and apply new ones; BE PATIENT! |
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| The Helmet: toughest part because it's the first thing you and everybody sees. Paint white - inside, back part above neckline & front part above face-mask (where Ridell sticker goes). Apply decals then shoot with ONE (1) coat of Gloss Coat. Apply face-mask, touch-up & then 2 more gloss coats. Trim neck ball socket, place on body. |
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